Leg 12 - Vanuatu (July-August, 2006)
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| As always, just click on any picture for full size impression |
The Village and the Volcano: The people of the village at Port Resolution were most
welcoming, and even sent Mike and I back to the boat our first day with a freshly steamed
lobster as a token of hospitality. Tanna has an active volcano, Yasur, so one evening, we
took a truck as far up the mountain as possible, and walked the remaining short distance to
the rim of the volcano. Our arrival at the rim was greeted with a tremendous explosion, and
glowing, red-hot rocks soared above our heads and landed just below us on the rim. For
the next hour, we witnessed mother nature’s fireworks in a spectacular display of the power
and pent-up-energy escapes from the core of our planet. We literally were watching an
island being born. Vanuatu has 6 volcanos (one under the sea) in various stages of activity,
and Yasur is one of the more active. Weeks later we would find ourselves camped on the
rim of another immense volcano, but that is another story.
welcoming, and even sent Mike and I back to the boat our first day with a freshly steamed
lobster as a token of hospitality. Tanna has an active volcano, Yasur, so one evening, we
took a truck as far up the mountain as possible, and walked the remaining short distance to
the rim of the volcano. Our arrival at the rim was greeted with a tremendous explosion, and
glowing, red-hot rocks soared above our heads and landed just below us on the rim. For
the next hour, we witnessed mother nature’s fireworks in a spectacular display of the power
and pent-up-energy escapes from the core of our planet. We literally were watching an
island being born. Vanuatu has 6 volcanos (one under the sea) in various stages of activity,
and Yasur is one of the more active. Weeks later we would find ourselves camped on the
rim of another immense volcano, but that is another story.
A very traditional ceremony: The wind direction changed, threatening our anchorage, so we regrettably
departed Tanna and we sailed to Port Vila on Efate, the largest city in Vanuatu with roughly 170,000 people. The
day we left there was to be a Circumcision ceremony which we really wanted to see, so we arranged to meet later
with some friends who attended and shared the story and photographs with us. Unlike many of the other festivities
that we have witnessed in Vanuatu, the ceremony was not staged for the visitors, but rather is an spectacular event
deeply rooted in the culture. It is effectively a celebration of a young man coming of age and is a huge event. The
boys may range in age from 7-17, but once they are circumcised, they must leave the village and live in the bush
for 90 days. Typically, the boy’s uncle accompanies the child and during their time together, the uncle teaches the
boy all that is necessary about the Vanuatu culture, traditions, legends and way of life including hunting, fishing and
farming. On the 90th day, the boys return to the village and a grand celebration takes place. Piles of gifts are
brought for repay the uncle for his special contribution, and the boys are welcomed by mothers, sisters, aunts and
girl friends who have all dressed up in incredibly colorful outfits.
Port Vila, Efate: Port Vila is another place where many of the transiting yachts come to re-supply, so once again
we enjoyed meeting with some old sailing friends. We took in a local waterfall, and after a couple of days of
visiting and shopping the market, we sailed north, stopping at several islands to visit the villages and do a bit of
snorkeling.
departed Tanna and we sailed to Port Vila on Efate, the largest city in Vanuatu with roughly 170,000 people. The
day we left there was to be a Circumcision ceremony which we really wanted to see, so we arranged to meet later
with some friends who attended and shared the story and photographs with us. Unlike many of the other festivities
that we have witnessed in Vanuatu, the ceremony was not staged for the visitors, but rather is an spectacular event
deeply rooted in the culture. It is effectively a celebration of a young man coming of age and is a huge event. The
boys may range in age from 7-17, but once they are circumcised, they must leave the village and live in the bush
for 90 days. Typically, the boy’s uncle accompanies the child and during their time together, the uncle teaches the
boy all that is necessary about the Vanuatu culture, traditions, legends and way of life including hunting, fishing and
farming. On the 90th day, the boys return to the village and a grand celebration takes place. Piles of gifts are
brought for repay the uncle for his special contribution, and the boys are welcomed by mothers, sisters, aunts and
girl friends who have all dressed up in incredibly colorful outfits.
Port Vila, Efate: Port Vila is another place where many of the transiting yachts come to re-supply, so once again
we enjoyed meeting with some old sailing friends. We took in a local waterfall, and after a couple of days of
visiting and shopping the market, we sailed north, stopping at several islands to visit the villages and do a bit of
snorkeling.
Back to our Roots at Olal: Eventually, we made our way to the village of Olal on Ambryn island in time for
the start of the 3 day “Back to our Roots” festival that the villages in the area have been putting on for about
5 years. Each day was filled with dancing, black magic, sand painting, and cooking with the climax being the
rhom dance on the final day. Many of the people on Ambryn believe in the spirit world, and much of the
ritual associated with this festival was directed to or by one or another of the spirits. Interestingly, many of
the people are Christian, and we had an interesting discussion with a local Assemblies of God minister on
how he worked to reconcile the Christian teaching with the local culture. The festival was very well done.
the start of the 3 day “Back to our Roots” festival that the villages in the area have been putting on for about
5 years. Each day was filled with dancing, black magic, sand painting, and cooking with the climax being the
rhom dance on the final day. Many of the people on Ambryn believe in the spirit world, and much of the
ritual associated with this festival was directed to or by one or another of the spirits. Interestingly, many of
the people are Christian, and we had an interesting discussion with a local Assemblies of God minister on
how he worked to reconcile the Christian teaching with the local culture. The festival was very well done.
Camping on a Volcano: Ambryn is another island with an volcano which, though not as volatile as
Yasur, is massive in scale and you can see into the molten lava from the rim. It is quite a hike to the rim,
so we chose to take a tent and spend the night on the ash-plain, and experience I dare say few others
have had. The views from the top, both looking down into the volcano and out across the miles of lava
and ash flows were amazing.
Diving the Coolidge: Once down from the mountain, we sailed on, making a brief stop to swim in an
enormous waterfall before arriving at Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island, our last stop in Vanuatu. Luganville
is Vanuatu’s second largest city, but is tiny in comparison with only 10,000 or so residents. During the WWII,
the American Pacific fleet was based here while staging for the taking of the pacific islands and ultimately
Japan. At one point, there were 100,000 Allied troops stationed here.
Scuba diving is hugely popular here with the principal attraction being the USS President Coolidge, a luxury
ocean liner turned troop carrier and sunk when it ran into an American mine. Of the over 5,000 troops on
board, only two lives were lost. The ship however is located close to the shore, and entices many a scuba
diver with its 40 some guided dives to various parts of the wreck. While not that fond of wreck-diving myself, I
nonetheless dove the Coolidge three times and was duly impressed on each occasion.
Vanuatu’s volcanic landscape and its remarkable culture offer a glimpse of our world as it was and is taking
shape. Its people seem universally happy, and, at least in the villages, very much at peace with the lives that
they live. Truly a treasure.
enormous waterfall before arriving at Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island, our last stop in Vanuatu. Luganville
is Vanuatu’s second largest city, but is tiny in comparison with only 10,000 or so residents. During the WWII,
the American Pacific fleet was based here while staging for the taking of the pacific islands and ultimately
Japan. At one point, there were 100,000 Allied troops stationed here.
Scuba diving is hugely popular here with the principal attraction being the USS President Coolidge, a luxury
ocean liner turned troop carrier and sunk when it ran into an American mine. Of the over 5,000 troops on
board, only two lives were lost. The ship however is located close to the shore, and entices many a scuba
diver with its 40 some guided dives to various parts of the wreck. While not that fond of wreck-diving myself, I
nonetheless dove the Coolidge three times and was duly impressed on each occasion.
Vanuatu’s volcanic landscape and its remarkable culture offer a glimpse of our world as it was and is taking
shape. Its people seem universally happy, and, at least in the villages, very much at peace with the lives that
they live. Truly a treasure.
Arrival in Tanna: The wind was brisk for our passage to Vanuatu, and we made landfall on the morning of the
fourth day at Port Resolution on the island of Tanna. Port Resolution is not an official entry port, so we and
another boat hired a truck and driver for the four hour ride (bounce) across the ash-plain and over the mountains
to Lenakel and back. Though we spent most of the ride hanging on for dear life, the scenery was spectacular,
and the experience of driving around the base of an active volcano will not easily be forgotten.
fourth day at Port Resolution on the island of Tanna. Port Resolution is not an official entry port, so we and
another boat hired a truck and driver for the four hour ride (bounce) across the ash-plain and over the mountains
to Lenakel and back. Though we spent most of the ride hanging on for dear life, the scenery was spectacular,
and the experience of driving around the base of an active volcano will not easily be forgotten.