Leg 2 - Key West to Panama (3/04 - 4/04)
As always, just click on any
picture for full size impression
We sailed from Key West under balmy skies with winds forecast from the NE and E at
15knots. We hooked into our first mahi-mahi shortly after setting sail, so we had fresh fish
aplenty for this passage.  After a pleasant, though mildly lumpy 2 days, we rounded Cabo
San Antonia on the SW coast of Cuba and entered the Caribbean Sea.  
Our plan was to move east along the coast, to make landfall at Isla Juventude, and then
spend some time diving the cays along the south coast.  The wind, now blowing 25-30knots
from the NE wasn't cooperating however, and after a nasty night and day of struggling to
make some easting,  we anchored at Maria La Gorda, not far from where we had rounded
the Cape.
Still planning to move east when the wind settled, we told the Port Captain of our plans, and
he cleared us to anchor, but not leave the boat.  After two days with no let-up in the wind,
we made arrangements to go ashore.
As Maria La Gorda is a resort area exclusive to foreign visitors, we
met many who had travelled throughout Cuba and at least got
some reports on the beauty of the country and its people.  Not all
reports were glowing however as the tourist dollar is beginning to
have an impact on the attitudes and activities of some of the
Cuban people who interact with tourists.  Too bad, really, but the
best time to have visited may have been 7-10 years ago.
Unfortunately though, we didn't have much chance to form our own opinion as our
schedule for passage through the Panama Canal required that we move along.  After
just a couple of days of diving and visiting, the winds did settle,  and we set out on the
27th for Grand Cayman Island.
Upon arrival at Grand Cayman, we rendezvoused with old friend Peter Barnes, an
Australian mate we had met in 1989 while traveling through the area.  Peter and
his wife Susan were terrific hosts, allowing us to bring Dreamweaver alongside
their dock, and entertaining us wonderfully.  During our visit, we made some
needed repairs to the autopilot, visited Gary's Mom and cousin who were
vacationing on the Island, stopped in on Geoff Cahill (another long-standing
Aussie friend), his wife Hillary and their 1 year old twin girls, and spent a fortune
on phone cards talking with loved-ones back in the States.
After a lovely wall dive, and too much celebrating, we
shoved off once again, this time bound for Panama.  
As is too often the case, the calendar moves faster than we sailors do, and our
plan to arrive in Panama during the week following Easter required that we sail
direct, foregoing Cartegena and the San Blas Islands.  This was a tough choice
as these were two places I particularly wanted to visit, but we have many more
places to visit ahead of us in the Pacific, and fodder for a future trip to the
western Caribbean.  We did stop for a brief swim and some lobster trading in the
Serrana Bank, an isolated rise in the Caribbean sea floor east of Nicarogua.
At present, we are in the port of San Christobal, on the east end of the
Panama Canal, awaiting our schedule for transiting.  We have visited the
Gatun Locks (the first of the locks for westbound ships)...the scale of the
operation of these locks, the number of huge ships awaiting transit, the
apparent efficiency of the Canal operation, and the pleasant and helpful
nature of the Panamanian people have all been remarkable.  On the other
hand, the horrible state of the city of Colon is a shock, particularly when you
imagine the beauty that once was here when all the embassies and military
basis were operating.  Since the American Military left, the economy has
suffered tremendously and Colon is now a poor, crime ridden city with
monsterous unemployment.  While it has never been particularly safe in some
parts of the city, now one advised to take a taxi, even when walking just two
blocks to the bus station.  
Of course, this being the staging port for the Spanish as
they shipped the wealth of the Americas back to Spain,
and ultimately the place where the pirates overwhelmed
the Spanish fleets, there are many historical places to
visit.  The history is fascinating, as are the flora and
fauna.
We expect to transit the Canal sometime within the next week and then we will
be off to the Galapagos Islands.  Stay tuned for our next adventure.
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