Leg 3 - Panama Canal Transit & Galapagos Islands (Apr-May, 2004)
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
Well, today we transited the Panama Canal. Because the transit itself, when combined with
the incredible achievement that is the Panama Canal, is such an experience in itself, we will
devote this entire update to the transit and surrounding days.
the incredible achievement that is the Panama Canal, is such an experience in itself, we will
devote this entire update to the transit and surrounding days.
As you can imagine, small boats are not favored by the Panama Canal Authority...a 45'
sailboat might pay $750.00 for the transit, while you can imagine what the Pana-Max ships
must pay. The Pana-Max ships are designed to have 2' of clearance on either side of the
canal, and it is most impressive to see the ships maneuvered into and out of the locks by
the small electric engines that work on tracks along the side of the locks.
sailboat might pay $750.00 for the transit, while you can imagine what the Pana-Max ships
must pay. The Pana-Max ships are designed to have 2' of clearance on either side of the
canal, and it is most impressive to see the ships maneuvered into and out of the locks by
the small electric engines that work on tracks along the side of the locks.
| As always, just click on any picture for full size impression |
To prepare the boat for the transit, we rented 14 tires which we wrapped in plastic
bags and hung 7 on each side...these to protect primarily against the rough
concrete walls of the locks, but also to fend off other boats that intentionally or
unintentionally find the side of our boat. We left the dock to pick up our canal
advisor at 4AM, and approached the first lock at first light. We were transiting with
a Pana-Max Car Carrier and the tug that assisted the ship. Once all are snugged
up inside the lock, the doors were shut, water flowed in by gravity, and we all rise
28 feet. This process was repeated 3 times in the Gatun locks, and then we
motor-sailed for 4 hours across the Gatun Lake before entering the downward set
of locks on the Pacific side. Along the way, we passed through the Galliard Cut,
which was the highest peak of the mountain that the Canal had to be blasted and
cut through...what a feat of engineering. By the end of the day, we were
approaching the western end of the Canal at the Bridge of the Americas, and our
once in a lifetime experience of taking a small boat through the Canal was at an
end. We were however in the Pacific Ocean, and about the begin yet another
adventure.
bags and hung 7 on each side...these to protect primarily against the rough
concrete walls of the locks, but also to fend off other boats that intentionally or
unintentionally find the side of our boat. We left the dock to pick up our canal
advisor at 4AM, and approached the first lock at first light. We were transiting with
a Pana-Max Car Carrier and the tug that assisted the ship. Once all are snugged
up inside the lock, the doors were shut, water flowed in by gravity, and we all rise
28 feet. This process was repeated 3 times in the Gatun locks, and then we
motor-sailed for 4 hours across the Gatun Lake before entering the downward set
of locks on the Pacific side. Along the way, we passed through the Galliard Cut,
which was the highest peak of the mountain that the Canal had to be blasted and
cut through...what a feat of engineering. By the end of the day, we were
approaching the western end of the Canal at the Bridge of the Americas, and our
once in a lifetime experience of taking a small boat through the Canal was at an
end. We were however in the Pacific Ocean, and about the begin yet another
adventure.
As Panama was the last stop before heading into the vast Pacific, I made a brief trip
to Atlanta while Gary stayed on to care for the boat and acquire some needed
supplies. When I returned, my nephew Mike and I set sail for the Galapagos Islands
while Gary returned to Atlanta for a family visit. The 10 day sail to Galapagos was
largely uneventful, though we did have some beautiful sunrises and sunsets, and
Mike caught what he claims was a Marlin -the only pictorial evidence is attached. We
did arrive at the uninhabited Isla Genevesa, and although we could not go ashore
since we hadn't yet cleared into Ecuador, we were able to see some truly amazing
bird and fish life...golden rays swimming in shoals by the boat; endemic red-footed
booby birds flying, nesting, and finally resting on the boat; frigate birds with their
brilliantly red inflated chest balloons trying to attract a mate.
That night we sailed overnight for Isla Santa Cruz where we would spend most of our
time in Galapagos (there are limited locations where anchoring is permitted (only 4 in
entire archipelago). We did cross the equator during the watch change around
11PM, and although we didn't swim naked across the equator as we had planned for
a daylight crossing, we did make an appropriate sacrifice to King Neptune, christened
with a glass of wine and some freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.
Here in Galapagos, we have been diving and swimming with sharks, sea-lions, giant
turtles, and shoals of fish that are so dense you cannot see anything but fish. We
also took a 3 day boat tour of some of the other islands where we saw thousands of
frigate, boobie and albatross birds mating and nesting. We enjoyed a wonderful visit
at the Darwin Research Center where they are working at understanding and
preserving the many endemic species of birds, fish and mammals that inhabit the
various Galapagos Islands. It has been a most remarkable visit, but it is time to move
along, and so tomorrow we depart. We will make a two or three day stop at Isla
Isabella before moving on to the Marquesas Islands, 3100 miles southwest.
to Atlanta while Gary stayed on to care for the boat and acquire some needed
supplies. When I returned, my nephew Mike and I set sail for the Galapagos Islands
while Gary returned to Atlanta for a family visit. The 10 day sail to Galapagos was
largely uneventful, though we did have some beautiful sunrises and sunsets, and
Mike caught what he claims was a Marlin -the only pictorial evidence is attached. We
did arrive at the uninhabited Isla Genevesa, and although we could not go ashore
since we hadn't yet cleared into Ecuador, we were able to see some truly amazing
bird and fish life...golden rays swimming in shoals by the boat; endemic red-footed
booby birds flying, nesting, and finally resting on the boat; frigate birds with their
brilliantly red inflated chest balloons trying to attract a mate.
That night we sailed overnight for Isla Santa Cruz where we would spend most of our
time in Galapagos (there are limited locations where anchoring is permitted (only 4 in
entire archipelago). We did cross the equator during the watch change around
11PM, and although we didn't swim naked across the equator as we had planned for
a daylight crossing, we did make an appropriate sacrifice to King Neptune, christened
with a glass of wine and some freshly baked chocolate chip cookies.
Here in Galapagos, we have been diving and swimming with sharks, sea-lions, giant
turtles, and shoals of fish that are so dense you cannot see anything but fish. We
also took a 3 day boat tour of some of the other islands where we saw thousands of
frigate, boobie and albatross birds mating and nesting. We enjoyed a wonderful visit
at the Darwin Research Center where they are working at understanding and
preserving the many endemic species of birds, fish and mammals that inhabit the
various Galapagos Islands. It has been a most remarkable visit, but it is time to move
along, and so tomorrow we depart. We will make a two or three day stop at Isla
Isabella before moving on to the Marquesas Islands, 3100 miles southwest.
At any rate, once being measured, a small boat must wait for a
"transit-assignment", which at the present time requires waiting
approximately 7 days. During the waiting period, we took the time to
visit Colon (a city virtually in ruins following the departure of the US from
the Canal Zone);Fort Lorenzo and Porta Bella (where much of the
Spanish Gold was stored awaiting shipment to Spain);take in a local
picnic day (with a demonstration from some fledgling bull-fighters);
Panama City (a thoroughly modern city which is trying to preserve some
of the character of centuries-old city center); and visit the Gatun Locks
(where we could watch the operation of the locks as the Pana-Max ships
were transiting through).
"transit-assignment", which at the present time requires waiting
approximately 7 days. During the waiting period, we took the time to
visit Colon (a city virtually in ruins following the departure of the US from
the Canal Zone);Fort Lorenzo and Porta Bella (where much of the
Spanish Gold was stored awaiting shipment to Spain);take in a local
picnic day (with a demonstration from some fledgling bull-fighters);
Panama City (a thoroughly modern city which is trying to preserve some
of the character of centuries-old city center); and visit the Gatun Locks
(where we could watch the operation of the locks as the Pana-Max ships
were transiting through).
