Leg 4 - Marquesas Islands (June-July, 2004)
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The Passage: What can you say about 21 days at sea, except that many of
the days seemed, in the words of Yogi Bera to be "deja vous all over again"! Gary
and I followed a 5/5-4/4-3/3 hour watch system with the first 5 hour watch
beginning at 7PM local time. We found that broke up the night nicely, afforded
each of us a chance for good sleep during the off-watch, and gave us the
opportunity for a relaxed visit and early main meal in the mid-afternoon at the 3/3
break. The watch system worked well for us, and, with the help of favorable winds
and current, we arrived in the Marquesas rested, but of course, very happy to be
once again at anchor.
the days seemed, in the words of Yogi Bera to be "deja vous all over again"! Gary
and I followed a 5/5-4/4-3/3 hour watch system with the first 5 hour watch
beginning at 7PM local time. We found that broke up the night nicely, afforded
each of us a chance for good sleep during the off-watch, and gave us the
opportunity for a relaxed visit and early main meal in the mid-afternoon at the 3/3
break. The watch system worked well for us, and, with the help of favorable winds
and current, we arrived in the Marquesas rested, but of course, very happy to be
once again at anchor.
The Marquesas:
Fatu Hiva: Any words that are not superlatives are inadequate to describe the
raw beauty of these islands. Our landfall was on Fatu Hiva, the southeastern most
of this group of 7 major (and another half dozen or so minor) islands. Although not
an official port of entry, the officials in the islands seem understanding of peoples'
desire to make an early landfall, and the townspeople at Fatu Hiva couldn't have
been more welcoming. Though it is reported that there is a gendarme to whom we
should report in Fatu Hiva, we never found him during our 5 days there. What we
did find were friendly people, clustered in a small village of maybe 50 homes.
Fatu Hiva: Any words that are not superlatives are inadequate to describe the
raw beauty of these islands. Our landfall was on Fatu Hiva, the southeastern most
of this group of 7 major (and another half dozen or so minor) islands. Although not
an official port of entry, the officials in the islands seem understanding of peoples'
desire to make an early landfall, and the townspeople at Fatu Hiva couldn't have
been more welcoming. Though it is reported that there is a gendarme to whom we
should report in Fatu Hiva, we never found him during our 5 days there. What we
did find were friendly people, clustered in a small village of maybe 50 homes.
Laundry Day
As in the other islands, the Copra industry (dried coconut from which is pressed
coconut oil) disintegrated some years ago, and the new crop (though not nearly as
evident) is the No-Ne (spelling?) which is exported to the US for the health food
stores. Fruit trees of many varieties (coconuts, oranges, limes, grapefruits,
papayas, bananas, guavas, passion fruits, and others) grow in the wild. Since
there are very few people on this very lush island, they were very generous with
fruit, and we left with our galley filled. We were also able to trade some tools for
"tapas", some decorated cloth pounded by hand from the bark of the banyan tree
and now only made on this island.
coconut oil) disintegrated some years ago, and the new crop (though not nearly as
evident) is the No-Ne (spelling?) which is exported to the US for the health food
stores. Fruit trees of many varieties (coconuts, oranges, limes, grapefruits,
papayas, bananas, guavas, passion fruits, and others) grow in the wild. Since
there are very few people on this very lush island, they were very generous with
fruit, and we left with our galley filled. We were also able to trade some tools for
"tapas", some decorated cloth pounded by hand from the bark of the banyan tree
and now only made on this island.
While in Fatu Hiva, we had some nice long hikes to stretch our legs, including one to
a lovely waterfall and related fresh-water pool - a very welcome swim in fresh water!
We were also lucky enough to be in Fatu Hiva for "Fete du Pere" (father's day).
Virtually all the village attended mass at the Catholic Church (most Marquesans are
Catholic); the mass was absolutely lovely, with the entire congregation joining their
melodious voices regularly throughout the service. The children of the village had
made leis for all the fathers, including those on the visiting sailboats, and the
celebration on the church property after the service was a special treat.
a lovely waterfall and related fresh-water pool - a very welcome swim in fresh water!
We were also lucky enough to be in Fatu Hiva for "Fete du Pere" (father's day).
Virtually all the village attended mass at the Catholic Church (most Marquesans are
Catholic); the mass was absolutely lovely, with the entire congregation joining their
melodious voices regularly throughout the service. The children of the village had
made leis for all the fathers, including those on the visiting sailboats, and the
celebration on the church property after the service was a special treat.
Tahuata: We spent only one day on Tahuata, anchoring in Hana Moe Noa Bay,
having been ushered in by a couple of manta rays. We have intermittently seen
manta rays playing alongside since the Galapagos Islands, but for one reason or
another, have yet to swim with them...yet another thing to look forward to. The
bay had a lovely beach, was framed within two huge volcanic arms, and was
overlooked by a very large, but apparently abandoned coconut plantation. A
pretty spot, but we were on our way to Ua Pou.
having been ushered in by a couple of manta rays. We have intermittently seen
manta rays playing alongside since the Galapagos Islands, but for one reason or
another, have yet to swim with them...yet another thing to look forward to. The
bay had a lovely beach, was framed within two huge volcanic arms, and was
overlooked by a very large, but apparently abandoned coconut plantation. A
pretty spot, but we were on our way to Ua Pou.
Ua Pou: Here we got our first taste of Marquesan civilization, as the town at
Hakahau Bay is fairly extensive, with a church, a library, a college (currently
under expansion by the French), several magasins (small groceries), a hospital
and a market (which unfortunately was never in use while were there). We
officially checked into the Marquesas here (the French gendarme was delightful,
and spoke English which was very helpful, our Marquesan and French being
less than adequate). We spent some time visiting with other boats that had
been some of our radio contacts during our passage from Galapagos, ate at a
restaurant!, bought fresh baguettes every morning and again did a bit of hiking.
Hakahau Bay is fairly extensive, with a church, a library, a college (currently
under expansion by the French), several magasins (small groceries), a hospital
and a market (which unfortunately was never in use while were there). We
officially checked into the Marquesas here (the French gendarme was delightful,
and spoke English which was very helpful, our Marquesan and French being
less than adequate). We spent some time visiting with other boats that had
been some of our radio contacts during our passage from Galapagos, ate at a
restaurant!, bought fresh baguettes every morning and again did a bit of hiking.
We met a lady who taught English and French at the college, and also had
contract to train a dozen or so young men from all the islands to be "guides" for
visitors on their respective islands. One day, the guides took us on a guided tour
- they were to practice their English, and we our French. We had a great time,
but learned precious little French! The next day we sailed in company with a
catamaran to a neighboring bay, taking most of the guides along with us. On
arrival, they proceeded to prepare some "Poisson Cru" with the tuna that was
caught enroute, and also produced some chicken quarters which they made into
another Marquesan delicacy. Several then took a dinghy and brought back the
edible sea-urchins from the rocks, so we had a veritable feast with our new found
friends. After a guided hike and swim at yet another spectacular waterfall,
DreamWeaver remained in that anchorage, while all the guides returned to the
main village onboard the catamaran. A lovely, spontanenous experience.
contract to train a dozen or so young men from all the islands to be "guides" for
visitors on their respective islands. One day, the guides took us on a guided tour
- they were to practice their English, and we our French. We had a great time,
but learned precious little French! The next day we sailed in company with a
catamaran to a neighboring bay, taking most of the guides along with us. On
arrival, they proceeded to prepare some "Poisson Cru" with the tuna that was
caught enroute, and also produced some chicken quarters which they made into
another Marquesan delicacy. Several then took a dinghy and brought back the
edible sea-urchins from the rocks, so we had a veritable feast with our new found
friends. After a guided hike and swim at yet another spectacular waterfall,
DreamWeaver remained in that anchorage, while all the guides returned to the
main village onboard the catamaran. A lovely, spontanenous experience.
Nuku Hiva: We sailed the next morning, and arrived before nightfall in Baie Du
Controleur on the SE quarter of Nuku Hiva. Another beautiful anchorage,
another hike, another small village, more practice with French and Marquesan.
Next day, different bay, another waterfall. Next we sailed on the Anaho Bay,
described by many as the anchorage most similar to a Caribbean anchorage.
The backdrop is again one of spectacular mountains and rock formations, but
the bay is set deep into the coast, so there is very little swell and the anchorage
is very calm. There was more live coral here than anywhere else we had seen,
though the water is not as clear as many of the sites in Caribbean. Ruins from
ancient villages can be found all over these islands since there once were
100,000 or so Marquesas; here we found the most extensive ruins, one of them
covering approximately 10 acres.
We are awaiting a weather window before sailing off for the Tuamotus.
Controleur on the SE quarter of Nuku Hiva. Another beautiful anchorage,
another hike, another small village, more practice with French and Marquesan.
Next day, different bay, another waterfall. Next we sailed on the Anaho Bay,
described by many as the anchorage most similar to a Caribbean anchorage.
The backdrop is again one of spectacular mountains and rock formations, but
the bay is set deep into the coast, so there is very little swell and the anchorage
is very calm. There was more live coral here than anywhere else we had seen,
though the water is not as clear as many of the sites in Caribbean. Ruins from
ancient villages can be found all over these islands since there once were
100,000 or so Marquesas; here we found the most extensive ruins, one of them
covering approximately 10 acres.
We are awaiting a weather window before sailing off for the Tuamotus.
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