Leg 5 - Tuamotu Archipelago - July/August, 2004)
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Nuku Hiva, Marquesas:
The month of July marks the celebration of French Independence, and since the Marquesas, Tuamotus
and Society Islands are all French, there is celebrating throughout the month. We were lucky enough to
be in Taheneha, the governmental center of the Marquesas for some of the celebrations, and we saw
classic and modern Marquesan and Tahitian dances performed by serious-minded local amateurs
dancers. The drum beat, the energy, the excitement is impossible to describe, and many of the pictures
didn’t turn out. Hopefully a representative few will tell enough of the story…an unbelievable experience,
and a highlight of the trip so far.
The month of July marks the celebration of French Independence, and since the Marquesas, Tuamotus
and Society Islands are all French, there is celebrating throughout the month. We were lucky enough to
be in Taheneha, the governmental center of the Marquesas for some of the celebrations, and we saw
classic and modern Marquesan and Tahitian dances performed by serious-minded local amateurs
dancers. The drum beat, the energy, the excitement is impossible to describe, and many of the pictures
didn’t turn out. Hopefully a representative few will tell enough of the story…an unbelievable experience,
and a highlight of the trip so far.
Tuamotu Archipelago:
The Tuamotu Archipelago has long been referred to as "the dangerous archipelago"...it is made up of
literally dozens of atolls which are essentially salt water lagoons formed by coral reefs which have built up
over the centuries on top of now-sunken volcanoes. The rim of an atoll is made up of either submerged
coral reefs, or motus which are sections of the reef that have built up enough surface to support
vegetation, and in some places, human habitation. The submerged reefs are all but invisible except in
good light, and the tallest things on the motus are the palm trees which grow at or very near sea level.
The Tuamotu Archipelago has long been referred to as "the dangerous archipelago"...it is made up of
literally dozens of atolls which are essentially salt water lagoons formed by coral reefs which have built up
over the centuries on top of now-sunken volcanoes. The rim of an atoll is made up of either submerged
coral reefs, or motus which are sections of the reef that have built up enough surface to support
vegetation, and in some places, human habitation. The submerged reefs are all but invisible except in
good light, and the tallest things on the motus are the palm trees which grow at or very near sea level.
In a storm, using only a sextant for navigation, a ship in a previous age would be doomed in these waters;
in the age of GPS (Global Positioning System) satellite navigation, these atolls, although still very remote,
have become somewhat more accessible. They are, however, still very tricky with normally only one pass
through the reef to the interior, and tidal currents running through the pass of 4-6 knots. We have had
some exciting times.
in the age of GPS (Global Positioning System) satellite navigation, these atolls, although still very remote,
have become somewhat more accessible. They are, however, still very tricky with normally only one pass
through the reef to the interior, and tidal currents running through the pass of 4-6 knots. We have had
some exciting times.
After an easy four day sail from the Marquesas, we arrived at our first atoll, Katiu. We were only the third
sailboat to visit in the past year, so our arrival was the event of the day for the 200 or so villagers who live
near the pass. Since farming of oysters to produce black pearls is a huge industry here, we used our
best high-school french to inquire and ended up meeting a delightful pearl farmer who for two days
showed us the ins and outs of seeding and growing black pearls. I even tried one implant myself, but I am
afraid that was one unfortunate oyster! We also got to open dozens of oysters, and Kasiki gave us our
choice of one of the valuable ones and a handful of lesser quality pearls. Of course we did some
snorkeling, but with Gary's wife soon arriving in Fakarava, we had to move on.
sailboat to visit in the past year, so our arrival was the event of the day for the 200 or so villagers who live
near the pass. Since farming of oysters to produce black pearls is a huge industry here, we used our
best high-school french to inquire and ended up meeting a delightful pearl farmer who for two days
showed us the ins and outs of seeding and growing black pearls. I even tried one implant myself, but I am
afraid that was one unfortunate oyster! We also got to open dozens of oysters, and Kasiki gave us our
choice of one of the valuable ones and a handful of lesser quality pearls. Of course we did some
snorkeling, but with Gary's wife soon arriving in Fakarava, we had to move on.
Fakarava is larger and has more people than Katiu, and has an active airport. Gary's wife arrived after a
long, but uneventful flight. We spent a couple of days in Fakarava, resting and snorkeling, and then
moved on the Toau. On Toau, there is a little indentation in the reef which provides shelter for boats
from the prevailing SE winds, and the same family has lived in relative isolation there for more than 25
years. In all of that time, they have welcomed yachts and enjoyed a wonderful exchange of cultures. For
the past 16 years, they have offered to prepare a meal for the visitors, and we were lucky to have arrived
when such an offering was extended. What a feast! Sea Crab, Octopus, Poisson Cru (fish prepared in
coconut milk and lemon juice), Lobster, and Coconut Crab. After dinner, the father, mother and son
played music, and the young daughters danced. The next day I went lobstering with the father and son,
and on the way back caught a massive tuna. As with Katiu, we could have stayed for a much longer
time, but the next Atoll was calling.
We moved on to Apataki for a brief two day stay, and then on to Rangiroa where Gary and AbbyGail had
reservations for a couple of nights at a lovely resort (bungalos over the water, wonderful restaurant,
class operation). When they return to the boat tomorrow, we will go diving with a local dive operator, and
then sail for Tahiti where Georgia will join us. Stay tuned.
long, but uneventful flight. We spent a couple of days in Fakarava, resting and snorkeling, and then
moved on the Toau. On Toau, there is a little indentation in the reef which provides shelter for boats
from the prevailing SE winds, and the same family has lived in relative isolation there for more than 25
years. In all of that time, they have welcomed yachts and enjoyed a wonderful exchange of cultures. For
the past 16 years, they have offered to prepare a meal for the visitors, and we were lucky to have arrived
when such an offering was extended. What a feast! Sea Crab, Octopus, Poisson Cru (fish prepared in
coconut milk and lemon juice), Lobster, and Coconut Crab. After dinner, the father, mother and son
played music, and the young daughters danced. The next day I went lobstering with the father and son,
and on the way back caught a massive tuna. As with Katiu, we could have stayed for a much longer
time, but the next Atoll was calling.
We moved on to Apataki for a brief two day stay, and then on to Rangiroa where Gary and AbbyGail had
reservations for a couple of nights at a lovely resort (bungalos over the water, wonderful restaurant,
class operation). When they return to the boat tomorrow, we will go diving with a local dive operator, and
then sail for Tahiti where Georgia will join us. Stay tuned.
| As always, just click on any picture for full size impression |