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This year we joined the Sail Indonesia Rally with the thought that traveling in company with
other sailors would not be a bad thing in this part of the world. The Rally organizers help to
expedite paperwork for entry and departure, as well as the clearance papers at the various
ports of call. In addition, they arranged certain scheduled stops along the route from Kupang
to Singapore, ensuring the availability of various services such as diesel and water re-supply ,
and arranging cultural demonstrations/dances and the like at the various islands.
Indonesia is comprised of more than 17,000 islands, with numerous cultures and religions
generally living in harmony. As you can imagine, the challenge of administering so many
separate places is significant, and our initial experience on entering the country is just one
example. Apparently, there were some communication difficulties between the local
administration in Kupang and the central government in Jakarta, so when sailboats arrived in
Kupang, the local customs agent embargoed all the yachts, advising all that they were not to
leave the harbor. In the end, the situation was resolved by a representative of the central
government flying to Kupang, but there were some very nervous yachts for several days. Not
the best public relations effort for a country trying to rebuild its tourism.
other sailors would not be a bad thing in this part of the world. The Rally organizers help to
expedite paperwork for entry and departure, as well as the clearance papers at the various
ports of call. In addition, they arranged certain scheduled stops along the route from Kupang
to Singapore, ensuring the availability of various services such as diesel and water re-supply ,
and arranging cultural demonstrations/dances and the like at the various islands.
Indonesia is comprised of more than 17,000 islands, with numerous cultures and religions
generally living in harmony. As you can imagine, the challenge of administering so many
separate places is significant, and our initial experience on entering the country is just one
example. Apparently, there were some communication difficulties between the local
administration in Kupang and the central government in Jakarta, so when sailboats arrived in
Kupang, the local customs agent embargoed all the yachts, advising all that they were not to
leave the harbor. In the end, the situation was resolved by a representative of the central
government flying to Kupang, but there were some very nervous yachts for several days. Not
the best public relations effort for a country trying to rebuild its tourism.
Kupang
Kupang was our port of entry. It is a fairly large city, but the anchorage is an open
roadstead, and the high wind and waves coupled with the embargo previously mentioned
made for a rather sober initial impression. Local transportation is provided by “bemos” which
are small van/buses that hold 10-12 people in the cramped carriage and seem to navigate by
means of horn-blowing. When the horns of hundreds of bemos combine with the roar of
even more motor bikes, the sound-polution is prodigious. First impressions aside, the people
of Kupang were universally welcoming, and most essential services were readily available.
The welcoming ceremonies included dances by various, brightly adorned dance groups and,
in the end, much of the bad impression of the initial days was ameliorated by the time of
departure.
Kupang was our port of entry. It is a fairly large city, but the anchorage is an open
roadstead, and the high wind and waves coupled with the embargo previously mentioned
made for a rather sober initial impression. Local transportation is provided by “bemos” which
are small van/buses that hold 10-12 people in the cramped carriage and seem to navigate by
means of horn-blowing. When the horns of hundreds of bemos combine with the roar of
even more motor bikes, the sound-polution is prodigious. First impressions aside, the people
of Kupang were universally welcoming, and most essential services were readily available.
The welcoming ceremonies included dances by various, brightly adorned dance groups and,
in the end, much of the bad impression of the initial days was ameliorated by the time of
departure.
Leg 15 - Indonesia (Part 1): (June-July, 2008)
Alor
From Kupang, many of the boats in the rally chose different destinations. DreamWeaver
headed northeast to the island of Alor, where we were welcomed by the most delightful
people of this large, but not often visited village of Kulibahi. In stark contrast to Kupang, this
anchorage was almost serene. Unfortunately, like Kupang (and many of the islands we
would subsequently visit), liter and trash was strewn everywhere, and the sea was literally
filled with plastic bags and other non-biodegradable junk. As with most of this part of
Indonesia, there is much poverty, and many children.
Departing Alor, we broke away from most of the other boats, and spent several days
anchored in the lee of a delightful sandbar, a couple of acres in size. Here we enjoyed
some pleasant snorkeling, bbq’s on the beach, and watched the moon rise out of the top of
a nearby volcano. This being part of the ‘ring of fire”, we were at one point in view of five
volcanoes. Though none are presently active, it reinforced the impression of this as a
volatile region still being shaped by the clashing of the continental plates.
From Kupang, many of the boats in the rally chose different destinations. DreamWeaver
headed northeast to the island of Alor, where we were welcomed by the most delightful
people of this large, but not often visited village of Kulibahi. In stark contrast to Kupang, this
anchorage was almost serene. Unfortunately, like Kupang (and many of the islands we
would subsequently visit), liter and trash was strewn everywhere, and the sea was literally
filled with plastic bags and other non-biodegradable junk. As with most of this part of
Indonesia, there is much poverty, and many children.
Departing Alor, we broke away from most of the other boats, and spent several days
anchored in the lee of a delightful sandbar, a couple of acres in size. Here we enjoyed
some pleasant snorkeling, bbq’s on the beach, and watched the moon rise out of the top of
a nearby volcano. This being part of the ‘ring of fire”, we were at one point in view of five
volcanoes. Though none are presently active, it reinforced the impression of this as a
volatile region still being shaped by the clashing of the continental plates.
Kawula
Because there are many small unlit fishing boats, and numerous fishing traps all along the
coasts of these islands, it is inadvisable to sail at night. Consequently, each day consists of
6-8 hours of sailing (or motoring as was often the case), arriving at the next anchorage in
the mid-afternoon, allowing us to read the water and navigate through the numerous coral
reefs. Most often, where there is water shallow and calm enough to anchor, there is a small
village, and whenever possible, we would go ashore to greet and visit with the people. We
were universally well received. The town of Lembata was a scheduled stop for the Rally, and
we joined several of the boats here for the welcoming ceremony with local dances being
performed and a dinner provided by the local regent There was quite a parade as much of
the town turned out to entertain and be entertained.
Because there are many small unlit fishing boats, and numerous fishing traps all along the
coasts of these islands, it is inadvisable to sail at night. Consequently, each day consists of
6-8 hours of sailing (or motoring as was often the case), arriving at the next anchorage in
the mid-afternoon, allowing us to read the water and navigate through the numerous coral
reefs. Most often, where there is water shallow and calm enough to anchor, there is a small
village, and whenever possible, we would go ashore to greet and visit with the people. We
were universally well received. The town of Lembata was a scheduled stop for the Rally, and
we joined several of the boats here for the welcoming ceremony with local dances being
performed and a dinner provided by the local regent There was quite a parade as much of
the town turned out to entertain and be entertained.
Traditional
Whaling and
Mountain Villages
Whaling and
Mountain Villages
We visited several schools, and the children were
really excited to greet us and practice their english.
really excited to greet us and practice their english.
Don Bosco Orphanage
and School
and School
| As always, just click on any picture for full size impression - use the "Back" key to return |
In many of the villages, we try to visit some of the schools to contribute small books, pencils
and the like. As you can imagine, the children are pleased with our visit, and often put on
quite an entertaining welcome.
and the like. As you can imagine, the children are pleased with our visit, and often put on
quite an entertaining welcome.