Leg 7 - The Cook and Samoan Islands - September, 2004)
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Baker
Papa Joane
Tato
A feast on a Motu
American Samoa
An island of incredible contrast, with the dirtiest harbour and surrounding area we have visited
so far, and yet strikingly beautiful out-island areas. An unincorporated and unorganized
American territory (it is the only territory whose citizens are American nationals, but not citizens;
and who are not governed by an act of Congress), this island and its people receive vast sums
in subsidies from America and is the "beneficiary" of an American financed Tuna processing
plant whose various aromas add a special fragrance to the harbour. Derelict buildings, litter,
and randomly built structures (mostly worn) dominate the shoreline of the harbour. One the
other hand, outside the city, the coast is lined with the most delightful villages, each with a least
one very elaborate Church (even if the village has as few as 6 houses!)
We had to have some welding done here, and were fortunate to be adopted by the office
manager who helped us find the items on our shopping list, Leua shepherded us on a tour of
the island, helped with the selection of a "lava lava", a traditional skirt worn by the men here.
One night, we made reservations for an Umu (traditionally prepared and presented feast) at
Tisa's Barefoot Bar, and enjoyed experiencing and learning about the island and its history. I
don't think we once passed a Samoan who did not great us with a smile.
An island of incredible contrast, with the dirtiest harbour and surrounding area we have visited
so far, and yet strikingly beautiful out-island areas. An unincorporated and unorganized
American territory (it is the only territory whose citizens are American nationals, but not citizens;
and who are not governed by an act of Congress), this island and its people receive vast sums
in subsidies from America and is the "beneficiary" of an American financed Tuna processing
plant whose various aromas add a special fragrance to the harbour. Derelict buildings, litter,
and randomly built structures (mostly worn) dominate the shoreline of the harbour. One the
other hand, outside the city, the coast is lined with the most delightful villages, each with a least
one very elaborate Church (even if the village has as few as 6 houses!)
We had to have some welding done here, and were fortunate to be adopted by the office
manager who helped us find the items on our shopping list, Leua shepherded us on a tour of
the island, helped with the selection of a "lava lava", a traditional skirt worn by the men here.
One night, we made reservations for an Umu (traditionally prepared and presented feast) at
Tisa's Barefoot Bar, and enjoyed experiencing and learning about the island and its history. I
don't think we once passed a Samoan who did not great us with a smile.
Upolo, Samoa
Independent Samoa's principal city is Apia, a delightful contrast to Pago Pago. The city is
litter-free, its buildings well maintained, and its port is a credit to the island. The city has
many nice, and relatively inexpensive restaurants, active night clubs (though two had
their license suspended for two weeks by the Matai (Chief) for violations of the blue laws
requiring that they close at midnight on Saturday night). The island is much larger than
American Samoa, and its mountains, cultivated valleys, flowing waterfalls and the like
make it a pleasure to travel inland.
Throughout the Samoas, most families live in fales or open sided houses. Even where a
more modern home has been enclosed on the property, it is usually fronted with a
traditional fale, where the family gathers for ceremonies, and lounging in the heat of the
day. In a society where privacy doesn't seem to be an issue, these are very practical,
and in many cases, attractive accommodations.
Fire dancing is a traditional practice in Samoa, and some of the fire-dancing shows are
spectacular. Abby Gray's, a hotel that has greeted American's since WWII time, has
been well maintained and is an attractive feature of the city's skyline. Robert Louis
Stevenson lived and died on this island, and wrote, among other things, Treasure Island
and Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde while here (Who knew Stevenson wrote Dr. J & Mr. H? - not
me!)
Independent Samoa's principal city is Apia, a delightful contrast to Pago Pago. The city is
litter-free, its buildings well maintained, and its port is a credit to the island. The city has
many nice, and relatively inexpensive restaurants, active night clubs (though two had
their license suspended for two weeks by the Matai (Chief) for violations of the blue laws
requiring that they close at midnight on Saturday night). The island is much larger than
American Samoa, and its mountains, cultivated valleys, flowing waterfalls and the like
make it a pleasure to travel inland.
Throughout the Samoas, most families live in fales or open sided houses. Even where a
more modern home has been enclosed on the property, it is usually fronted with a
traditional fale, where the family gathers for ceremonies, and lounging in the heat of the
day. In a society where privacy doesn't seem to be an issue, these are very practical,
and in many cases, attractive accommodations.
Fire dancing is a traditional practice in Samoa, and some of the fire-dancing shows are
spectacular. Abby Gray's, a hotel that has greeted American's since WWII time, has
been well maintained and is an attractive feature of the city's skyline. Robert Louis
Stevenson lived and died on this island, and wrote, among other things, Treasure Island
and Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde while here (Who knew Stevenson wrote Dr. J & Mr. H? - not
me!)
Savai'i, Samoa
By far the largest of the Samoan islands, Savai'i is also the least developed and the most
beautiful. The coast is dotted with "beach fales" which are frequented by vacationers
from throughout Samoa as well as foreigners. The charming lifestyle, the mountainous
interior, the roaring blow holes (some of the largest in the world), and once again, the
Samoan's themselves all combine to make Savai'i a special place indeed.
The family of the lady we met in Pago Pago, Leua, lives in a village here, and they hosted
us to an incredible afternoon feast. Leua's father is a Matai of the village, and regaled us
with many stories of his village, and the rather strict methods used by the group of Matai
to maintain peace and tranquility within the community. We had spent the early part of
the day on a driving tour of the island, so It was a special day all around, but in the
evening, we returned to DreamWeaver and, with many fond memories of Samoa, we set
sail for Tonga.
More about Tonga in our next update.
By far the largest of the Samoan islands, Savai'i is also the least developed and the most
beautiful. The coast is dotted with "beach fales" which are frequented by vacationers
from throughout Samoa as well as foreigners. The charming lifestyle, the mountainous
interior, the roaring blow holes (some of the largest in the world), and once again, the
Samoan's themselves all combine to make Savai'i a special place indeed.
The family of the lady we met in Pago Pago, Leua, lives in a village here, and they hosted
us to an incredible afternoon feast. Leua's father is a Matai of the village, and regaled us
with many stories of his village, and the rather strict methods used by the group of Matai
to maintain peace and tranquility within the community. We had spent the early part of
the day on a driving tour of the island, so It was a special day all around, but in the
evening, we returned to DreamWeaver and, with many fond memories of Samoa, we set
sail for Tonga.
More about Tonga in our next update.
Note: My digital camera
is no longer working, so
I will add pictures when
I can get some film
developed.
is no longer working, so
I will add pictures when
I can get some film
developed.
| As always, just click on any picture for full size impression |
Suwarrow, Cook Islands
Where the land ends, the sea begins; where the sea ends, the sky begins; where the sky ends,
that's where you find Suwarrow. Part of the vast Cook Island archipelago (while only 241 sq km of
land mass in over 2 million km of ocean) this tiny atoll lies some 670 miles west of Bora Bora, and
approximately 450 miles east of American Samoa. Three people live on the atoll from April through
mid-November, but those 3 people are very special indeed. Papa Joane, now well into his 70's) is
the patriarch (and founder of the Suwarrow Yacht Club!), and his nephew Baker and grandson Tato
keep him company and do much of the work required. What work?...well, there is plenty, especially
when you only have the supplies that you carried with you, or that yachts can contribute as they
pass through. Joane is an incredibly gracious host, very proud of his Cook island heritage which he
wants to share with all who come to visit. Of course, the only way to visit is by yacht, but Joane runs
the island like a summer camp..when yachts are visiting, Joane plans an event for virtually every
day...whether that be a grand feast including coconut crab, lobster, tune, breadfruit, taro root,
coconut pancakes and more; or a cookout featuring coconut crabs and fresh fish at one of the
motu; or bird watching on some other motu, Joane has something planned, and is disappointed if all
do not attend.
The atoll has beautifully clear water with wildly vibrant water and many, very aggressive sharks!
Swimming is not normally a problem, but spear fishing is a fools game. We snorkeled, scuba-dived,
ate (and ate, and ate), played volley ball on the beach, and generally had a wonderful time, all while
learning from Joane about his islands, and their people. Joane is a wonderful spokesman for his
culture, and a model teacher to the next generations about whom he cares greatly. A generous,
lovely man who greatly enhanced our appreciation for Polynesia and its people.
Where the land ends, the sea begins; where the sea ends, the sky begins; where the sky ends,
that's where you find Suwarrow. Part of the vast Cook Island archipelago (while only 241 sq km of
land mass in over 2 million km of ocean) this tiny atoll lies some 670 miles west of Bora Bora, and
approximately 450 miles east of American Samoa. Three people live on the atoll from April through
mid-November, but those 3 people are very special indeed. Papa Joane, now well into his 70's) is
the patriarch (and founder of the Suwarrow Yacht Club!), and his nephew Baker and grandson Tato
keep him company and do much of the work required. What work?...well, there is plenty, especially
when you only have the supplies that you carried with you, or that yachts can contribute as they
pass through. Joane is an incredibly gracious host, very proud of his Cook island heritage which he
wants to share with all who come to visit. Of course, the only way to visit is by yacht, but Joane runs
the island like a summer camp..when yachts are visiting, Joane plans an event for virtually every
day...whether that be a grand feast including coconut crab, lobster, tune, breadfruit, taro root,
coconut pancakes and more; or a cookout featuring coconut crabs and fresh fish at one of the
motu; or bird watching on some other motu, Joane has something planned, and is disappointed if all
do not attend.
The atoll has beautifully clear water with wildly vibrant water and many, very aggressive sharks!
Swimming is not normally a problem, but spear fishing is a fools game. We snorkeled, scuba-dived,
ate (and ate, and ate), played volley ball on the beach, and generally had a wonderful time, all while
learning from Joane about his islands, and their people. Joane is a wonderful spokesman for his
culture, and a model teacher to the next generations about whom he cares greatly. A generous,
lovely man who greatly enhanced our appreciation for Polynesia and its people.
